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Beauty food Photo © : Adobe Stock/andreaobzerova Moving forward with beauty from within Oliver Wolf Like many markets, global beauty was hampered by supply issues caused by the pandemic last year. But while sales in the sector as a whole fell by 8 %, the skincare market remained bullish. 1 In its annual report, market leader L’Oréal notes that skincare sales dipped by just 3 % in 2020, while dermocosmetics bucked the sector trend to enjoy a 2 % uplift in sales value. 1 These figures illustrate just how invested consumers are in looking after their skin. And they underline the fact that people are willing to pay more for skincare products with scientific endorsement – dermocosmetics deliver functional benefits, often in partnership with dermatologists. Sitting alongside dermocosmetics that are applied topically to the surface of the skin are nutricosmetics – supplements that are taken orally to deliver beauty benefits from within. According to Reportlinker’s “Women Health & Beauty Supplements” report, this market was estimated at USD 52.09 billion in 2020 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9.42 percent to reach USD 89.42 Billion by 2026. 2 One beauty from within ingredient that has attracted a lot of attention and been the subject of a great deal of scientific research in recent years is collagen and, more specifically, collagen peptides. A natural protein, collagen makes up approximately 30 % of the body’s total protein content. As a major component of our connective tissue, its strength is what keeps skin smooth and wrinkle-free. During the ageing process, however, skin cells (fibroblasts) deteriorate and their ability to make collagen diminishes. From the age of about 30 onwards, skin becomes thinner and fine lines start to appear. It also becomes increasingly dry. Collagen peptides are hydrolyzed to a specific short length, so the body is able to absorb them more easily than regular collagen. GELITA, the leading manufacturer of collagen peptides, offers a broad portfolio 44 No. 3 November/December 2021
Beauty food of Bioactive Collagen Peptides (BCP ® ) that stimulate the metabolism of specific collagen-containing cells to enhance collagen production in different parts of the body – including in the skin. free and containing no E-numbers, it is also ideal for the development of clean label brands and satisfies the growing consumer demand for products that are pure, safe and naturally functional. Scientifically proven benefits Today’s consumers are keen to learn how beauty from within applications work. Unsubstantiated claims are not enough – there has to be scientific backing. “Consumers will challenge products for their scientific evidence and only choose those with convincing proof of the promised effects,” says Dr Stephan Hausmanns, Vice President Health & Nutrition at GELITA. “Manufacturers can be assured that we have carried out clinical studies with our Bioactive Collagen Peptides, confirming their effectiveness and, in the case of VERISOL ® , their considerable stimulating effects on skin metabolism.” Elasticity and hydration Reaching below the surface Topical dermocosmetics containing collagen have been around for some time, but doubts have been raised about their long-term effectiveness. The problem lies in the fact that they only affect the epidermis – the outer layer of the skin – and thus can only deliver temporary effects. With its VERISOL ® specific Bioactive Collagen Peptides, GELITA provides a scientifically proven-to-be-effective ingredient for beauty from within products with high consumer appeal. VERISOL ® contains natural BCP ® which have been specifically developed to provide the highest possible efficacy in human skin. With their special amino acid composition, they positively influence collagen metabolism from the inside out. Whether consumed in food, drinks or nutricosmetics, VERISOL ® enters the bloodstream and reaches the fibroblasts in the dermis. In a completely natural process, it stimulates collagen metabolism and helps strengthen the skin’s connective tissue. This leads to improved elasticity, fewer wrinkles and a younger, healthier appearance. The initial clinical study verified the effectiveness of VERISOL ® collagen peptides in biophysical skin parameters related to skin ageing. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 69 women aged 35–55 were randomized to receive 2.5 g or 5 g of VERISOL ® or a placebo once a day for 8 weeks. Skin elasticity in those receiving VERISOL ® showed a statistically significant improvement compared with the placebo group after only 4 weeks of treatment. In some women, a maximum increase in skin elasticity of up to 30 % was observed after the 8-week treatment period. Interestingly, this effect was even more pronounced in women aged 50 and over. With regard to skin moisture and skin evaporation, the collagen peptide treatment’s positive influence was also seen among this age group. The positive effect on skin elasticity was still detectable at the end of the 4-week washout phase, suggesting a long-lasting dermal physiological effect. Sensory advantages Clearly, it is not only the effectiveness of a product that determines its success. How it looks, feels and – in the case of nutricosmetics – tastes are also of the utmost importance. VERISOL ® scores high here too as it has no effect on a product’s colour, is virtually neutral in taste and can easily be combined with minerals, vitamins, trace elements and other nutrients. This means it can be included in a wide range of products with specific properties, from optimizing skin structure to wrinkle reduction and enhanced skin hydration. Moreover, VERISOL ® is free from fat, cholesterol, carbohydrates and gluten. Being GMO- No. 3 November/December 2021 45
